Most of the travelers that cross the Gorge of Samaria can't wait to reach Agia Roumeli. Only those accompanied by a guide and the experienced travelers have the luxury and time to appreciate the beauty of this gem of Nature which is the greatest and perhaps most beautiful gorge all over Europe. What about the vast majority of travelers? Is it the fatigue? One's feet that start to stumble? Or is it one's yearning to get rid of the fordable shoes as soon as possible? Maybe it is one's obsession to reach the end of the journey or the need to sink one's tired feet in the cold water? The desperate need to escape from the intolerable heat or the reflection of a cold beer together with the appeal of the mesmerizing and seductive sea? The fact remains these more than 2000 people who cross the gorge every day give the impression of being in haste.
The present guide will attempt to urge the restless visitor to get a better view of the gorge, appreciate things that he would have otherwise missed, indulge this curiosity, as well as entertain him and cause him to become fond of the gorge and why not? live for a in this world of fairy tales, history and legend, leaving the 16 km journey in the back seat.
Orientation: We are at the entrance of Farangas, the name given to the Gorge by the people of Sfakia, which also known as Xyloskalo. On this very rock shepherds have once used tree trunks and wood to construct some steps to unable their entrance in the gorge. Only the name of that construction has lived through the centuries. Some steps are curved in the rock.
We are surrounded by a magnificent landscape. The steep and rotten slopes of Mt Gigilos or Sapimenos (2086m), the mountain of Zeus, rise just in front of us. The legend has it that the king of the Gods used to move his thrown up there when he had enough of Olympus and the gods' disputes and intrigues. At the top of Gigilos, towards Omalos lies the natural platform, by the name of Agathoti, that Zeus was said to land his chariot.
The limestone guts of mountain form impressive depths and mysterious caves that are inhibited by fairies, daemons. spirits, good or evil.
On our right, on the passage leading up to Gigilos, in the middle of an a vast scree, after the passage of Xepiritas, the arch made of huge rocks, the work of giants, we find the crystal waters of the Spring Linoseli. Its water is undoubtedly divine. Famous for its freshness, it is the coolest water in the island. The legend has it that Zeus used to bathe in these waters under the eyes of the nymphs that hid behind the rocks.
Till this day the visitor rests at the spring is able to hear their whispers and exclamations before the divine beauty! (The water that passes under the ground makes this whispering noise.)
The passageway, leading up to the mountain, begins at the pavilion cliff which dominates the Valley as far, as Agios Nikolaos, passes from the towers and the spring, goes up the pass and reaches the top of Gigilos and Volakias (2.217 m.)
Along this path one can encounter many endemic and rare plants as well as more common ones. Here are some of them.
On our left, a second pathway rises abruptly and leads to Kallergis. The Mountain Club of Chania has built the shelter of Kallergis at the edge of another cliff, which dominates the valley of Samaria. Having this shelter as a starting point, one can explore the high peaks of Melidaou. Pachnes and Trocharis, on our far left, which include rare endemic and exceptional plants. It is in this area and mainly in Poria (a natural pathway to Samaria) that we come across many bee-wives that feed exclusively on mountain flowers: thyme ( Thymus capitatus), white thyme (Satureja spinosa), mountain tea (Sideritis syriaca), mark ram (Origanum microphyllum, (Satureja thymbra) etc. Their honey is delicious and the visitor can taste it in Omalos.
Behind us the plateau of Omalos covers an area of 25 square kilometers, at an average altitude of 1080 m. above the level of the sea. Surrounded by high mountains it is almost always flooded during winter. The water forms beautiful ponds; especially in the south part which gradually drain away during summer. In the North; near the entrance of the plateau, just before the village, we encounter a great sinkhole, the cave of Tzanis or Honos that permits the flooded water to escape towards the valleys and the sea. French speleologists have explored more than 3km of subterranean galleries, reaching 600 meters in depth. The waters that flood the entrance of the cave cause a strange phenomenon: the air that is trapped inside this vast natural siphon tries to break free, creating huge bubbles that break causing the earth to shake as if a dynamite had exploded. The water that escapes reaches the hill as far as the carriageway.
This plateau, which gives the impression of being abandoned, used to be a source of life and wealth for the region. Wheat, barley, oat, potatoes, beans and other vegetables, known for their incredible taste once throve in these fertile grounds. Today, most of the land remains uncultivated and the visitor can only come across wild plants and flowers. Some of them, like the Sieber's crocus (Crocus sieberi) and the Baker's lily (Tulipa bakeri) are beautiful and bloom in the early spring.
Other plants include the wild lettuce (Taraxarum bithynicum) in winter and the spiny chicory (Chicorium spinosum) in spring. These herbs, raw or boiled are delicious combined with lemon and oil.
Omalos has been the shelter of the Cretan rebels and was never conquered by the Turks. The plateau as well as the entire district of Shakier remains a symbol of the endless yearning for freedom of the immortal Cretan soul.
Before beginning our descent we must dedicate a few words to Ablest (Zelkova abelicea). This is a unique tree that can only be encountered in the Himalayas. It belongs to a genus that was abundant in the North Hemisphere, at the begin ning of the tertiary period, 65 million years ago.
Today, there are only 4 species left, of which only one, Abelitsa, can be encountered in Europe. It is encountered at 500 m. from the entrance of the Gorge. Shepherds used its wood to make the famous Cretan crooks or "katsounes".
Those who do not wish to visit the gorge should pay a visit to the Museum of Natural History that is next to the gift shop and snack bar and walk up to the pavilion to have a cup of coffee or grab a bite, The magnificent view, is rewarding!
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