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Most of the travelers that cross the Gorge of Samaria can't wait to reach Agia Roumeli. Only those accompanied by a guide and the experienced travelers have the luxury and time to appreciate the beauty of this gem of Nature which is the greatest and perhaps most beautiful gorge all over Europe. What about the vast majority of travelers? Is it the fatigue? One's feet that start to stumble? Or is it one's yearning to get rid of the fordable shoes as soon as possible? Maybe it is one's obsession to reach the end of the journey or the need to sink one's tired feet in the cold water? The desperate need to escape from the intolerable heat or the reflection of a cold beer together with the appeal of the mesmerizing and seductive sea? The fact remains these more than 2000 people who cross the gorge every day give the impression of being in haste.
The present guide will attempt to urge the restless visitor to get a better view of the gorge, appreciate things that he would have otherwise missed, indulge this curiosity, as well as entertain him and cause him to become fond of the gorge and why not? live for a in this world of fairy tales, history and legend, leaving the 16 km journey in the back seat.
Orientation: We are at the entrance of Farangas, the name given to the Gorge by the people of Sfakia, which also known as Xyloskalo. On this very rock shepherds have once used tree trunks and wood to construct some steps to unable their entrance in the gorge. Only the name of that construction has lived through the centuries. Some steps are curved in the rock.
We are surrounded by a magnificent landscape. The steep and rotten slopes of Mt Gigilos or Sapimenos (2086m), the mountain of Zeus, rise just in front of us. The legend has it that the king of the Gods used to move his thrown up there when he had enough of Olympus and the gods' disputes and intrigues. At the top of Gigilos, towards Omalos lies the natural platform, by the name of Agathoti, that Zeus was said to land his chariot.
The limestone guts of mountain form impressive depths and mysterious caves that are inhibited by fairies, daemons. spirits, good or evil.
On our right, on the passage leading up to Gigilos, in the middle of an a vast scree, after the passage of Xepiritas, the arch made of huge rocks, the work of giants, we find the crystal waters of the Spring Linoseli. Its water is undoubtedly divine. Famous for its freshness, it is the coolest water in the island. The legend has it that Zeus used to bathe in these waters under the eyes of the nymphs that hid behind the rocks.
Till this day the visitor rests at the spring is able to hear their whispers and exclamations before the divine beauty! (The water that passes under the ground makes this whispering noise.)
The passageway, leading up to the mountain, begins at the pavilion cliff which dominates the Valley as far, as Agios Nikolaos, passes from the towers and the spring, goes up the pass and reaches the top of Gigilos and Volakias (2.217 m.)
Along this path one can encounter many endemic and rare plants as well as more common ones. Here are some of them.
On our left, a second pathway rises abruptly and leads to Kallergis. The Mountain Club of Chania has built the shelter of Kallergis at the edge of another cliff, which dominates the valley of Samaria. Having this shelter as a starting point, one can explore the high peaks of Melidaou. Pachnes and Trocharis, on our far left, which include rare endemic and exceptional plants. It is in this area and mainly in Poria (a natural pathway to Samaria) that we come across many bee-wives that feed exclusively on mountain flowers: thyme ( Thymus capitatus), white thyme (Satureja spinosa), mountain tea (Sideritis syriaca), mark ram (Origanum microphyllum, (Satureja thymbra) etc. Their honey is delicious and the visitor can taste it in Omalos.
Behind us the plateau of Omalos covers an area of 25 square kilometers, at an average altitude of 1080 m. above the level of the sea. Surrounded by high mountains it is almost always flooded during winter. The water forms beautiful ponds; especially in the south part which gradually drain away during summer. In the North; near the entrance of the plateau, just before the village, we encounter a great sinkhole, the cave of Tzanis or Honos that permits the flooded water to escape towards the valleys and the sea. French speleologists have explored more than 3km of subterranean galleries, reaching 600 meters in depth. The waters that flood the entrance of the cave cause a strange phenomenon: the air that is trapped inside this vast natural siphon tries to break free, creating huge bubbles that break causing the earth to shake as if a dynamite had exploded. The water that escapes reaches the hill as far as the carriageway.
This plateau, which gives the impression of being abandoned, used to be a source of life and wealth for the region. Wheat, barley, oat, potatoes, beans and other vegetables, known for their incredible taste once throve in these fertile grounds. Today, most of the land remains uncultivated and the visitor can only come across wild plants and flowers. Some of them, like the Sieber's crocus (Crocus sieberi) and the Baker's lily (Tulipa bakeri) are beautiful and bloom in the early spring.
Other plants include the wild lettuce (Taraxarum bithynicum) in winter and the spiny chicory (Chicorium spinosum) in spring. These herbs, raw or boiled are delicious combined with lemon and oil.
Omalos has been the shelter of the Cretan rebels and was never conquered by the Turks. The plateau as well as the entire district of Shakier remains a symbol of the endless yearning for freedom of the immortal Cretan soul.
Before beginning our descent we must dedicate a few words to Ablest (Zelkova abelicea). This is a unique tree that can only be encountered in the Himalayas. It belongs to a genus that was abundant in the North Hemisphere, at the begin ning of the tertiary period, 65 million years ago.
Today, there are only 4 species left, of which only one, Abelitsa, can be encountered in Europe. It is encountered at 500 m. from the entrance of the Gorge. Shepherds used its wood to make the famous Cretan crooks or "katsounes".
Those who do not wish to visit the gorge should pay a visit to the Museum of Natural History that is next to the gift shop and snack bar and walk up to the pavilion to have a cup of coffee or grab a bite, The magnificent view, is rewarding!
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Quick Healthy Breakfast Ideas: (this is usually the hardest part for the majority, what should we eat for breakfast? A question that comes up thousands of times per morning.)
* Oatmeal- (....with some sugar!) See Oatmeal has tons of health benefits, plus, it's the right way to start off your day. Oatmeal carries the right source of fiber you need. Not to mention that eating Oatmeal will slow down the digestion of starch. And those who eat more oats are less likely to develop a bad heart disease. And of course, Oatmeal (or oats, to put it that way) contain a really good source of Vitamins and nutrients. (like zinc, vitamin E, copper, iron, selenium, and it's a good source of protein).
* Cereal- nothing better than an old classic bowl of cereal. Some recommended brands of healthy yet yummy cereals are Kellogs, Honey nut cheerios (which helps lower cholesterol), Healthy Valley, Whole Grain cheerios, and even General Mill's too. What do you have to say now? I just listed 5-6 delicious healthy cereal brands.
* Fresh Fruit- Yummm!! you know why I love fruit? because it adds color to your plate. If your plate does NOT have color, you are not combining (or eating) correctly. Your plate should always have color. What types of Fresh fruits for the morning? hmm...let's see: Oranges, Banana's, Pineapple (I love pine apple since it helps out a lot with health & fitness) raspberries, blueberries, infinite fresh fruits! Oh and here's a good tip for the morning: You can always make a good natural homemade fruit smoothie, using ordinary fruits like strawberries and banana's, add some milk, some sugar, blend and voila! You just have to try this Fruit smoothie, I guarantee that you'll love it. (Mix your favorite fruits)..you'll thank me later.
* Yogurt- yogurt is consumed by many many people. A popular brand of yogurt is Yoplait, a healthy & delicious brand of Yogurts, and talk about good variety, this brand has tons of flavors and mixtures of natural Yogurt. (My fave?....banana, strawberry, and vanilla!) Just browse the dairy isles for a good Yogurt. (Choose wisely!)
And there you have it, I've listed some very good examples of healthy nutritious breakfast foods.
And like I said here are some great food swaps:
* Croutons --> Nuts: You can swap Croutons in your salad for nuts, or even grilled or baked chicken. Do you know how much calories and carbs 1 single Crouton contains? You'll blow up if you eat more than 10 croutons.
* Soda --> Water & Tea: Soda can be delicious, but also a bad health factor, not too mention junkie. I gave up on soda 1 year ago, and I'm still living;) I swapped Soda for some good Tea and Water, and if you try the "soda ban" and swap it for Tea & water you'll soon see why it was a great choice. Plus, tea isn't bad or icky at all. Most people think Tea has no taste, which is wrong. There are dozens and dozens (And so on) of different teas to try.
* Canned Soups --> vegi soup: Canned soups contain high sodium, and what happens when you consume too much sodium? your body will retain water, bloat, and increase high blood pressure. You can swap Canned soups for Homemade vegi soups, it's got all the nutrients and vitamins you need. And as for flavor? don't worry there is a homemade vegi soup that suits your taste buds.
* White Flour Pasta --> Whole wheat pasta: No big difference in taste, but a big difference in swap for healthier choice. Whole Wheat pasta contains the fiber you need for your body.
* Candy & sweets --> Chocolate covered Banana or Strawberry: Yummy! What I do is that I would sometimes eat chocolate covered Banana's or Strawberries and it is DELISH! I really love it, swapping candy & sweets for fruits/ chocolate covered Strawberries is a great choice.
* Fried Fish /sticks --> Shrimp!: Frozen shrimp has really good protein, comparing it with the Fried Fish or even fried fish sticks, Frozen Shrimp for the win!
* White bread --> Wheat Bread: Yes I know what you must be thinking "Ugh, this again? I've heard this a billion times" well yeah you heard it a billion times, but have you tried it a billion times?;) If your answer is a No, then it's time to swap White bread for Wheat bread.
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Treat yourself to TLC, tasty little granola bars. We start with our unique combination of seven whole grains and sesame, and bake them up with the wholesome goodness of roasted nuts, whole seeds, and warm spices. And with 4 grams of fiber and 6 7 grams of protein, our crunchy granola bars are as nourishing as they are tasty. Try the tasty perfection of baked whole grains with wildflower honey that adds a touch of natural sweetness. Our honey toasted 7 grain granola bars have 4 grams of fiber and 7 grams of protein.
The most healthful breakfast is whole grain cereal. If you're trying to lose weight, control cholesterol or diabetes, or just need a lot of energy, your best bet is a hot cooked cereal of whole grains, such as oatmeal; or barley, brown rice or wheat berries cooked and served like oatmeal. Flavor it with raisins or other dried fruits, cinnamon, and perhaps a handful of nuts such as pine nuts.
If you prefer cold cereal, you need to check the list of ingredients carefully. The FIRST ingredient should be a whole grain. Then scan through the entire list and if you see the words "partially hydrogenated," put the box back on the shelf. We recommend that you avoid foods with partially hydrogenated oils (or "trans fats"), and they still show up in many cereals (see the list below.)
Once you've eliminated all the brands made with refined grains or partially hydrogenated oils, check for ADDED sugars (you want little or none) and fiber (you want a lot.)
Raisins or other dried fruits will add a lot of grams of sugar to the listing on the nutrition panel; they are not distinguished from added sugars, so you can only estimate the amounts.
The fiber content listed on the nutrition label can be confusing because it's based on serving size, and very light cereals (such as puffed wheat) show little fiber per serving, but an acceptable amount when you adjust for weight. Cereals made from bran (the outer covering removed from whole grains) will have higher fiber content than cereals made from whole grains (which have the germ and starchy parts of the grains as well as the fiber), but they can be hard to digest.
2007 Update:I'm delighted to note that partially hydrogenated oils (trans fats) have been taken out of many cereals. The old list included 56 brands with PHO's; the new list has only 13! Most of the popular General Mills, Post and Quaker cereal brands no longer have them. Kelloggs is the one major cereal maker that has not yet removed them from many of their leading products; hopefully they will respond to consumer pressure soon.
Is it really whole grain? Manufacturers have also responded to the call for more whole grains in our diet, so you will find a lot more choices that meet my recommendation of "whole grains as the first ingredient". However, many that claim to be "whole grain" still include refined grains. You may need to do some detective work to see what you're getting. One-ingredient whole grain cereals (i.e., shredded wheat, puffed wheat, oatmeal) are sure bets. If you see milled corn, corn meal, wheat flour or rice in
Cheerios - General Mills
Chex, Wheat or Multi Grain - General Mills
Cinnamon Toast Crunch - General Mills
Cinnamon Grahams - General Mills
French Toast Crunch - General Mills
Golden Grahams - General Mills
Grape Nuts - Post
Grape Nut Flakes - Post
Great Grains, all varieties - Post
Healthy Choice Toasted Brown Sugar Squares - Kelloggs
Kashi (all varieties) - Kashi Company
Life - Quaker
Mini-Wheats, all varieties - Kelloggs
Muesli - Familia
Nutri-Grain, all varieties - Kelloggs
Oatmeal Crisp, all varieties - General Mills
Oatmeal Squares - Quaker
Organic Healthy Fiber Multigrain Flakes - Health Valley
Puffed Wheat - Quaker and others
Shredded Wheat, all varieties and sizes - Post and others
South Beach Diet Toasted Wheats
Total - General Mills
Uncle Sam - U.S. Mills
Weetabix
Wheaties - General Mills
Barbara's, Cascadian Farm, Mother's, Nature's Promise and other smaller brands that specialize in "healthful" cereals (but always check the list of ingredients).
Recommended: All Bran or High Bran Cereals
(no trans fats, little or no added sugars. )
100% Bran - Post
All Bran, all varieties - Kelloggs
Bran Flakes - Post
Chex, Multi-Bran - General Mills
Complete Wheat Bran Flakes - Kelloggs
Complete Oat Bran Flakes - Kelloggs
Cracklin' Oat Bran - Kelloggs
Crunchy Corn Bran - Quaker
Fiber 7 Flakes - Health Valley
Fiber One - General Mills
Fruit & Bran - Post
Granola, Low Fat - Kelloggs
Oat Bran - Quaker
Oat Bran Flakes - Health Valley
Oat Bran Flakes with Raisins - Health Valley
Organic Bran with Raisins - Health Valley
Raisin Bran - Kelloggs
Raisin Bran Flakes - Health Valley
Raisin Bran, Whole Grain Wheat - Post
Raisin Nut Bran - General Mills
Shredded Wheat 'n' Bran - Post
Total, Raisin Bran - General Mills
Weight Watchers Flakes 'n' Fiber
100% Natural Granola - Quaker
Not Recommended - Cereals that Contain Partially Hydrogenated Oils (Trans Fats)*
Many also are primarily refined grains and high in added sugars.
Basic Four - General Mills
Cocoa Krispies - Kelloggs
Corn Pops - Kelloggs
Froot Loops - Kelloggs
Golden Crisp - Post
Granola with Raisins, Low Fat - Kelloggs* (see note below)
Healthy Choice Mueslix - Kelloggs
Healthy Choice Almond Crunch with Raisins - Kelloggs
Healthy Choice Low Fat Granola with Raisins - Kelloggs
Mini-Swirlz - Kelloggs
Smacks - Kelloggs
Smart Start - Kelloggs
Special K - Kelloggs
Not Recommended - Cereals Made from Refined Grains
Many of these also contain a lot of added sugar
Apple Jacks - Kelloggs
Cap'n Crunch, all varieties - Quaker
Chex, Rice or Corn - General Mills
Cocoa Frosted Flakes - Kelloggs
Cocoa Blasts - Quaker
Cocoa Pebbles - Post
Cocoa Puffs - General Mills
Cookie Crisp/Chocolate Chip - General Mills
Corn Pops - Kelloggs
Corn Flakes - Kelloggs and others
Count Chocula - General Mills
Crispix - Kelloggs
Frosted Flakes - Kelloggs
Fruity Pebbles - Post
Honey Bunches of Oats - Post
Honey Comb - Post
Honey Nut Clusters - General Mills
Kix - General Mills
Lucky Charms - General Mills
Product 19 - Kelloggs
Puffed Rice - Quaker
Reese's Peanut Butter Puffs - General Mills
Rice Krispies, all varieties - Kelloggs
Total Corn Flakes - General Mills
*When I checked these cereals on 1/26/07, Kelloggs' Low Fat Granola with Raisins contained partially hydrogenated oils while their plain Low Fat Granola had none. I hope this means that Kelloggs is following the lead of the other cereal makers and that PHO's will soon be gone from all of their products. Meanwhile, protect yourself and check the list of ingredients! Cereal recipes change.
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